Tue 23rd June

Best of Jordanluca x Stephen Jones – In Their Own Words & Photos

Text   Dino Bonacic

Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto capture five of their favourite hats from their past collabs with the legendary milliner in a lockdown photo diary.

Some people know exactly what they want to do at an early age. Others are thankful for a good push in the right direction. Jordan Bowen falls into the second category, having found his love of fashion design somewhat accidentally. “When I was about 21, I was busy being a f*cking wreck and loving it. I wanted to get into fashion, but I didn’t know how or what I wanted to do,” he says. So just like any good auntie would, his aunt Kim told him about her old uni pal Stephen Jones looking for someone to help with preparing his 25th anniversary installation at Dover Street Market. Jordan joined Stephen’s atelier, and those few weeks turned into seven years, as he continued to build his skillset with the legendary London milliner. “The way that I worked and thought, things that I responded to – hats were truly perfect for me,” he explains.

In 2017, a decade after taking up hatmaking, Jordan decided to expand his creative expression by teaming up with his long-time partner in life and Vivienne Westwood alumn Luca Marchetto on launching Jordanluca. “We had been developing a language together over our time together, and when we launched the brand, I wanted to make a point for myself to move away from hats for a while,” Jordan continues. But a few seasons in, the old passion crept back up and the duo decided to team up with Stephen on completing their looks with custom headpieces. “When we started doing shows, I thought it would be really interesting to work with him – we are all part of an extended family at this point,” adds Jordan, remembering how Stephen described that initial collaboration as “the honeymoon after the marriage.”

Three seasons in, with a new one just around the corner (Jordanluca are currently working on their SS21 collection), we’ve asked the Italo-British duo to capture and talk us through their favourite moments from their past collaborations with Mr Jones. Cracking the code of great lockdown style, Jordanluca present you their hats galore:

Jordan as the Flying Nun (AW19t)

JORDAN BOWEN: “This season we were making hats for the individual looks as extensions of the garments rather than following a single idea of the collection. This particular one was based on one of the shirts from the collection – it uses the same pleating technique as well as the buttons and placket. There’s also a shirt collar that goes on top of the hood which has a wire in it so you can mould it, which makes it look almost like the Flying Nun’s hat.”

Luca bathing under the Floral Planet (SS20)

JB: They were quite mad, these big things on sticks… For SS20, we wanted to create something adventurous and bold with the hats, and they ended up looking quite architectural, but also feminine with the flowers going around the planet. It felt quite light at the same time as being this large, oppressive thing looming above the body.” 

Luca chilling in the Royal Beret (AW20)

JB: “For AW20, we looked at Jacobean England and referenced a lot of the dress-codes associated with royalty of the times – including ruffs, berets and big sleeves. Stephen was very specific in the way he wanted to style the beret. He wanted it to sit straight on the head – because if you move it to the left, it’s much more of a military statement.”

Jordan cooking under the Signature Hood (AW20)

JB: “While it might look like a trapper, this hat is actually a reference to the executioner’s hood of the [Jacobean] times. That triangular elastic of the fabric ruching in the front is something that we actually developed years ago, even before we launched Jordanluca, in an experiment, and have since been using in the garments.It is somewhat of a brand signature.”

The statue wearing the Arrogant Bucket Hat (AW20)

JB: “There was that bit of arrogance in the collection, playing up with the idea of the Jacobean-era wealthy flaunting their new attire to the poor. A bucket hat will always be a bucket hat, but we were quite specific with where we put the label in order to fit the large feathers in it and play with the drama of the [show’s venue] Shoreditch Town Hall. But at the same time, you can just have something in a nice fabric which you can buy and wear every day.”